I enjoyed this route as much as Crimson Chrysalis - it is more crack oriented, less crowded, but has some less than stellar rock on a few pitches. In the past year or so, bolted belays were added which changed the character of the route a bit. Now it is possible to do the best pitches and rap off. Personally I think the addition of bolted belays is a good thing, otherwise some of the belay locations would be awkward. The crux pitch now has an extra bolt (see description). I do not know the origin of these new bolts.
The start of the route may be identified by a 6-12" crack that goes up to a scrubby tree. This crack is clean but the start looks like a grunt, so we climbed a thin crack to the left and stepped right, which seemed harder than the 5.7 rating of this pitch. Continue up past the tree, and climb double cracks (see Swain's topo) up a slot to a bolted belay at the top of a flake/pedestal (5.7, 130').
P2: Move down and step right, then head straight up cracks, through a short chimney, and follow more cracks to another bolted belay (5.8, 150'). I thought this was the best pitch on the route.
P3: Head up to a right facing corner and crank past a small overhang. Crank over and then follow a wide crack and less than stellar rock to the next belay (no offwidthing necessary) (5.8, [90' according to comment below]).
P4: The crux pitch. Move up and then right to a new bolt. Continue up to an ancient 1/4" bolt. There is a new bolt maybe 3' higher than the rusty bolt. I don't know why they didn't just replace the 1/4" bolt. The rock on this pitch is a little suspect, but the crux section is not too long and is now quite well protected. Continue on up to another bolted belay. This is the last bolted belay on the route, so if you want to go down, do so now. (5.9, 140').
P5: This pitch has a reputation for bad rock, and indeed be extra careful as a hold could easily snap off. However bad rock in Red Rocks is still pretty good. Follow a steep crack through nice (too nice) horizontal dikes to a huge ledge. Throw in protection often in case a hold snaps off, this pitch has recorded some spectacular falls, but it is really not that bad, just be careful (5.8, 150').
P6: Scramble easily past bushes to a large chimney, climb the corner to the left and belay on a large ledge at the base of a left facing corner (5.2, 160').
P7: Climb the left facing corner, then move right to a weird dihedral above a bottomless chimney. This next section is hard to protect due to the zig-zag nature of the pitch. Stem up and finish the pitch at a notch (5.7, 160'). Alternatively, follow bolts directly above the belay (this is the final pitch of Unimpeachable Groping). From there either rap Unimpeachable, or rap into the notch from a single bolt, and continue as below.
Descent: Do one double rope rappel to the south, trying not to get your ropes stuck in the cactus. Scramble down to the base of a bowl, and then do three more double rope rappels down black water streaks, the route Power Failure. The anchor for the second rappel down the waterstreaks is off to the right (facing the wall). Do not go off the end of your ropes! Scramble down around the toe of the buttress to your packs.
Protection
Standard rack to #3 Camalot, maybe some additional small cams.
I'm surprised to hear (and have mixed feelings about) the new bolted anchors on the route. I suspect that one of the things which kept Ginger Cracks less crowded than Crimson Chrysalis is the fact that the belays were not fixed (and sometimes uncomfortable), and that it would therefore be impossible to bail after the crux pitch without leaving a lot of gear behind. I still doubt that it'll be as crowded as Crimson, given the quality of rock, but the bolted belays seem to change the character of the route.
There was much discussion about the bolts on redrockresole.com, but at the moment this site is "temporarily unavailable". Maybe rec.climbing had a discussion about it.
Like I said I do not know who placed these bolts. I hope that they do not get blindly chopped. For all we know, they may have been placed with the blessing of the first ascent team.
By Mike Morley Administrator From: Oakland, CA Feb 18, 2004
George, I believe that Jules George, the owner of Red Rock Resole, was killed in a motorcycle accident a while back. She was a J-Tree and later Red Rocks local. Very sad. Not sure if someone else took over the business.
Mike:I just wanted to take the time to personally thank you for taking on this effort. If you ever need any help don't hesitate to contact me. I love the haunting walls and canyons of the Red Rocks. Rerockresole.com was a great database and clearing house of information but with the tragic loss of Jules George things were looking bleak. Thanx again for keepin' keepin' on! Philo
I found Ginger Cracks to be a thoroughly enjoyable route! The bolts don't detract from the route at all, considering the amount of natural gear and the quality of the rock.The newly bolted top pitch variation will no doubt generate some controversy, but we joked about it being the sport climb with the longest approach in RR (do the first 6 pitches of Ginger Cracks)! This route is a great day out, and comes highly recommended. The easy descent is a bonus.
The real start to P1 has a grunty move or two, but not bad really. I thought P2 had some fairly stout moves on suspect (hollow-sounding) rock right off the belay ... P3 I remember as 5.7, and not really a roof so much as stepping over or around an overlap. I barely noticed the crux on P4, it was really sweet and smooth climbing.
NB that you cannot link P4 and P5. My partner hung himself off of tiny sh|t 20' below the huge ledge, and it was up to me to Not Fall on those 20' of loose too-big horizontals.
We went up & over (this was in 2001?), but given the choice today I'd rap after P4 - between the bad rock, grunty 5.5 that followed, and rope-snarling bushes in between raps above, it detracted from the day (and led us into night, as it were).
I think pitch 3 is only 90 feet, not the 150 listed in the description above. Also there are 2 boilts just under the roof in the middle of P2.
By EVonD From: boulder, co Apr 4, 2005 rating: 5.9
I'd say the bolted variation out left for the last pitch goes at .6 to .7 and is well bolted. Not sure how it compares to the regular finish since we went left instead. Worthwhile way to finish.
Raps didn't seem bad at all, I wouldn't let getting off stop you from going to the top.
FUN route! Although the comments about suspect rock do ring true, had a couple pop....
The left hand bolted variation at the top of Ginger Cracks is actually the last pitch of Unimpeachable Groping.
If you elect to do the bolted route on the left, the descent is slightly different. Rappel into the notch from the single bolt and then continue down the normal rappel route as it is described in a number of books. Do not try to rappel the entire distance off the single bolt.
I found this to be a great route, not busy and pretty much in the shade from mid morning to afternoon. I would not characterize the rock on pitch 5 as "bad" but rather as "not as good" as the other pitches, besides it is well protected. We also did the bolted variation (unimpeachable groping) on the last pitch, I thought it was a great finish with nice exposure. The rap off of this pitch is a good looking bolt that was backed up with a good stopper (#5 ?). We double rope rapped to right above the water streak. It is low angle, but ropes pulled okay, and if they were to get stuck it may be 5.2 to go retrieve them. Kick-Ass route, Finish early and do Power Failure next!
This is a great route. The crux pitch (#4) was one the most beautiful pitches I have ever done. Pitch 5 is also great, steep and exposed. If it wasn't for the less attractive final two pitches this would be a three star route for me. Definitely worthwhile doing.
By rex parker From: henderson,n.v Apr 30, 2007 rating: 5.9
just some advice i dont know who put them their or why but towards the end of the second pitch theirs two bolts under a roof to the left, after the finger chimney, dont stop here trend rightand follow the crack system after the roof to get to the end of the second pitch. so far out of the red rock climbs ive done, as a local, this is my favorite by far . rex
By vegastradguy From: Henderson, NV Oct 12, 2007 rating: 5.9
this is a great route- a total must do for any visitor to Red Rock. the quality of rock is high for the entire route, despite how it looks when you get on it up higher- dont let the short 4th class pitch distract you- the last pitch is great and a wild lead at the grade.
the belays are only bolted until the top of the crux pitch, after that, you're building your own.
i do think that all of the lead bolts save one are unnecessary- why the other three are up there, i have no idea.
great route, absolute must do- certainly a classic at the grade. and, if you're fast, you can also tick off Power Failure, another good route, on the way down!
Ginger Buttress
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